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Dancing at a juke joint on Saturday night: Clarksdale, Mississippi
Marion Post, 1939 |
Long before the Civil Rights movement took America by storm, segregation had given birth to a different movement; Black Entrepreneurism. Ironically, (it can be argued) segregation contributed to much more than it ruined. It led to the establishment of thousands of Black businesses that provided employment in the Black community. It’s been said there were more Black businesses in the early to mid-twentieth century than there are today.
During Jim Crow, Black businesspeople found their particular niche, and provided the services that were customarily and legally refused to Black consumers. Entertainment was one of these services. It launched the careers of many top notch entertainers; and eventually brought forth the birth of Rock n’ Roll. It also made famous a culinary genre that is now shared internationally.
The successful venues were part of what is known as “The Chitlin’ Circuit”. They had names such as The Apollo in NYC; The Uptown in Philadelphia; The Hippodrome in Richmond; and the Royal Peacock in Atlanta. However, there was a lesser but equally important group of venues on the Chitlin Circuit. They are known as Juke Joints and Speakeasies.
Like the entertainers who graced these inconspicuous hole-in-the-walls, most jukes never made a name for themselves outside of their own geographical confines. Despite their second fiddle stature, and the fact they were the black part of town, the “Jooks” or “Jukes” and the large venues on the Chitlin’ Circuit had one thing in common, There was good cooking either on the premises (usually in the rural areas) or nearby.
Jukes in the rural areas were different. They were usually located far from town. Unlike their White counterparts, the “Honky-Tonks”, it was hard to find a juke joint that did not have a kitchen or a BBQ pit outside. One main theory is that in rural areas, few Blacks owned cars, and could not easily get to a restaurant (if one existed) after a night of drinking. Thereby, creating a need (and added business opportunity) to cook on the premises. Needless to say, these weren’t 4-star restaurants with linen tablecloths and world renown chefs. The juke joint cooks were regular people from the community who bought their home cooking skills with them. Staple foods as fried chicken, collards, pigs feet, and fried fish were always on the menu.
Courtesy of soulfoodandsoutherncooking.com
4 pork chops, 3/4 to 1 inch thick
1 Valdalia or sweet onion, thinly sliced
2 teaspoons Mrs Dash seasoned salt
2 teaspoons garlic powder
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1/2 teaspoon paprika
1/2 cup self rising flour
1/2 cup vegetable oil
2 cups water
Rinse pork chops in cold water. Pat dry with paper towels and set aside.
In a small bowl combine and mix together seasoned salt, garlic powder, black pepper and paprika.
Rub about 3/4 teaspoon of seasoning on each pork chop.
Thoroughly coat each chop with flour and set aside.
Save all leftover seasoning for use in onion gravy.
Heat vegetable oil in a heavy skillet over medium-high heat. When the skillet is hot enough, add chops, and brown on each side for about 3-four minutes per side
Once the chops are browned, remove them from the skillet and allow to cool on a plate covered with paper towels.
For Onion Gravy
Without removing any drippings, add sliced onions to the skillet and cook until browned.
Add remaining flour to the skillet and a very small amount of water if necessary.
Stir onions and flour together until golden brown, paying careful attention not to burn the gravy.
Add two cups water to the onion gravy and stir. Bring to a boil over medium high heat. Return pork chops to skillet, reduce heat to simmer, cover and cook for about 1 hour. The meat is done when it's tender.
Add additional season to taste if necessary
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